In late 2018 I found myself in Italy, struggling to figure out what path to take in life. So, I briefly took myself to Venice, a place that had long been on my bucket list!
Stepping out of Santa Lucia Venezia railway station, I was greeted by clear blue skies and the sparkling Grand Canal. As a first stop, I visited the closest gelateria. Why? Because it’s a firm belief of mine that gelato in Italy must be consumed at least once every day. It’s happy deliciousness, inexpensive, and it allows one to engage with the locals and learn more of the language (although admittedly, by the end of my trip I retained close to nothing of the language)! And to prove that I’m not just paying lip service, I licked my way through 10 scoops in 3 days. My choice of flavours were gianduia (chocolate-hazelnut) and amarena (sour cherry).
I stayed at a small bed and breakfast, 10 minutes from the Piazza San Marco. My room was the size of a generous cupboard and at 6AM every morning I was awoken by the sounds of solemnly tolling bells. But, I had a view of the charming canals and rooftops of Venice, and I hardly spent much time in there at all.
Built on an ancient swampy lagoon in the Adriatic Sea, the floating city is best experienced by water. Whether your choice of vessel is a gondola, water taxi or vaporetti (public water buses or ferries), a trip down the serpentine Grand Canal is a must. History unfurls itself along its banks with magnificent fifth century palaces, elegantly dressed churches, stylish statues and a sixth century pescheria (fish market) filled with colours, smells and Venetian ladies yelling at the tops of their voices!
Beautifully designed buildings (like in the San Geremia area), many of them previously palaces and now museums, line the Grand Canal.
A quintessential Vientiane sight, sleeping gondolas against the backdrop of stunning architecture, like that of the San Giorgio Maggiorie church.
Another way to absorb the essence of Venice is on foot and preferably without a map. There is no tiring of the labyrinth of narrow alleyways and tiny canals that Venice is so well known for. Every corner is picture perfect, every little bridge looks like it’s been lifted from a fairy tale, and solemn church bells frequently toll throughout the city.
Venice is built across 118 islands, separated by 150 canals, connected by 450 bridges, and sprinkled with charming campos (little city squares, called piazzas elsewhere in Italy) for the weary adventurer to rest in. Venetian buildings are supported on oak and pine piles, enough to frustrate an entire ecology movement. Driven deep into the intensely water-logged soil, the lack of oxygen prevents their decay.
The whimsical and sombre alike are attracted to Venice, also referred to the city of love, making it the perfect setting to people-watch.
The side canals quieten down at dusk as tourists flock to see the sunset from Piazza San Marco. Sunset (and sunrise) is therefore a good time to walk around and absorb the beauty of Venice.
One of the first places I visited was the grandiose Piazza San Marco, that echoes a history spanning centuries. The Basilica San Marco, also known as the Chiesa d’Oro (Church of Gold), is one of the world’s best known examples of Italo-Byzantine architecture. Large opulent mosaics and panels recounting the Old and New Testaments, decorate its exterior. The Piazza San Marco feels magical at night; in the early mornings it transforms into a battle ground for pigeons.
The Campanile di San Marco (bell tower of St. Marks) stands directly opposite the Basilica, at 98.6 meters tall. The Campanile unexpectedly collapsed in 1912, killing only the caretakers unfortunate cat. It was rebuilt to 95 ft and is said to offer a fantastic view of the Venetian rooftops and canals. The Biblioteca Marciana, beside it, is a library built in the Renaissance style and named after the Patron Saint of Venice, St. Mark.
Adjoining the Basilica, close to the water’s edge, is the Palazzo Ducale, a masterpiece of the Venetian Gothic style. Although famous as the residence of the Doge’s family, it also served as the offices for administration of justice, till the fall of the Venetian Republic in 1797.
As the tale goes, prisoners walking across the Bridge of Sighs, connecting the Palazzo Ducale with the prison, would sigh as they glimpsed the lagoon for the last time.
In the commercial heart of the city, the iconic Rialto Bridge affords a beautiful view of the Grand Canal. Unfortunately, it is also insanely crowded and you may have to bring your knees and elbows to the game.
It’s worth crossing the Ponte de l’Accademia to the Galleria de l’Accademia, where Napoleon amassed the richest collection of Venetian paintings! My appreciation of art is only slightly worse than my grasp of physics so I opted to explore the surrounding area and consume a bellini and carpaccio (fresh slices of beef and salmon set on the plate with lemon, olive oil and truffle mushrooms or Parmesan cheese) instead.
Santa Maria della Salute is a minor basilica in the Dorsoduro part of Venice. The church, built in the Baroque style, was dedicated to Our Lady of Health in 1630 when Venice experienced a devastating outbreak of the plague (Black Death).
The charming and relatively quieter Campo Santa Stefano is filled with artists, musicians and restaurants with traditional Venetian foods like Risotto al nero di seppia (squid-ink risotto), Fegato alla veneziana (Venetian liver and onions) and Risi e bisi (rice and peas).
Since I had time to spare I took a day trip to the twin towns of Murano, known for its traditionally-made and unique glass-masterpieces, and Burano, famous for its refined embroidered and lace work. With far less tourists, it was a pleasure to walk around these colourful and happy looking towns!
Returning to Venice, I wished I could spend a little longer exploring her streets. This is one city I will definitely revisit.
